Let It Grow Hydroponics Forum - Organic Hydroponic Nutrients

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Author Topic: Organic Hydroponic Nutrients  (Read 3361 times)
infosponge
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« Reply #15 on: May 12, 2009, 11:29:07 PM » Reply with quote

yup thats what i got... now if i used h2o2 as a last resort.. how much do i use.. or will that make things worse.. i got gh hydrozime on the way.. mail order sucks.. so i mite not have anything left by the time it gets here.. the leaves are yellow from top to bottom.. roots are dark brown.. looks like N and P diff.. but just changed the rez a couple days ago.. to chems.. and ph is haywire.. took 200cc for 15 gal rez to lower it from 9.2 to 6.0 and 24 hrs latter back to 9.0+.. think i got sumething bad in there.. but hey.. good for the knowledge.. trial and error thing.. i dont mind all this.. kinda fun and really a good family project..
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ian
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« Reply #16 on: May 13, 2009, 01:22:11 AM » Reply with quote

yup thats what i got... now if i used h2o2 as a last resort.. how much do i use.. or will that make things worse.. i got gh hydrozime on the way.. mail order sucks.. so i mite not have anything left by the time it gets here.. the leaves are yellow from top to bottom.. roots are dark brown.. looks like N and P diff.. but just changed the rez a couple days ago.. to chems.. and ph is haywire.. took 200cc for 15 gal rez to lower it from 9.2 to 6.0 and 24 hrs latter back to 9.0+.. think i got sumething bad in there.. but hey.. good for the knowledge.. trial and error thing.. i dont mind all this.. kinda fun and really a good family project..

Thanks for the info. Brown roots is normally a sign of algae. By itself, algae poses no threat as it is non-toxic, but its presence invites other problems especially when it is covering roots. Various enzyme products claim to reduce algae by breaking down roots and I have found this to be true. However, I have also found that if you add an enzyme product to roots which are already occupied by algae, the algae population will explode. Enzymes are a good preventative measure in early flowering periods but are not a cure for existing problems. Enzymes definitely have the effect of assisting with nutrient uptake. Unfortunately, algae will benefit from the increased nutrient uptake rate more than sick plants will. In this way, the desired effect that you would like the enzyme to be having on your plants is assisting the algae more than anything else.

The solution I have found to be effective for algae is a simple process. First, the containers should be examined for cracks and loose fittings for light leaks. I put a battery powered lantern in the empty container, shut it, and observe it in a dark room. If anything more than a very thin glow through the growing medium can be seen, there are light leaks and this should be remedied. Aluminum tape works, but for more complete applications I glue panda film to the containers, white side out/black side in.

For the roots themselves, they need to be washed and possibly trimmed. Do not pressure wash the roots as this washes the root hairs off as well. Use lukewarm water and a mushroom brush (brush used to flake the dirt off of fresh mushrooms without bruising the mushroom) or other very soft brush to remove the algae from the roots.

To kill as much leftover algae as possible, clean the system, run the system with a few teaspoons of Physan 20 (consult the label, but don't use one teaspoon/55 gallons as this is too weak) and then run with water.

Physan 20 is relatively safe. Even though it is meant to kill things, it has about the same toxicity as sprayed fertilizer. It says that it kills fish on the bottle, but this is mostly to prevent people from using it in a fish pond or tank. Nobody would spray fertilizer in a fish tank thinking that it wouldn't kill fish, but someone might do this with algaecide if it didn't say not to on the bottle. Of course the standard safety precautions apply, don't spray your eyes with it, etc. It doesn't seem to have much effect at all when dumped on grass and shrubs, which is what I do with the leftover Physan. I suppose that is not the best disposal method, but better than dumping it in the gutter.

As a remedy for the shoot portion of the plant, I would recommend spraying with epsom salts. You can use the bath quality epsom salts available at most every drug store. 1/4-1 teaspoon per gallon should work fine.

H2O2 will not work for algae. H2O2 is much better for controlling pythium in sterile systems which undergo temperature flux from high daytime combined with low nighttime temperatures allowing both forms of the pythium to mature and rapid population growth to take place. I've rarely heard of pythium in controlled indoor hydroponics, the culprit is usually algae misidentified as pythium. I have had pythium in my greenhouse and it does not slowly degrade plants like algae, it kills them within a couple of days left unchecked. This is especially heinous as pythium explosions usually show up on very hot days when plants may already be on the verge of wilting.

But... yea... wash the roots out and seal the containers. I've had this problem a few times. The first time I tried H2O2 and that killed everything. After that I treated with enzyme to prevent it, but it happened again to a bucket not treated with enzyme and I tried to treat with enzyme and grew a huge amount of algae as a result.

One thing I've heard recommended is a UV lamp like the kind used to kill algae in fish tanks. One thing different about hydroponics and fish tanks is you don't care about  expensive chelated iron reacting with UV light in fish tanks.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2009, 01:26:19 AM by ian » Logged
infosponge
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« Reply #17 on: May 13, 2009, 03:58:59 AM » Reply with quote

i got root rot.. blak sludge/slime.. everything will be dead by tomarrow im shure.. ima try h2o2 as a last resort..
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ian
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« Reply #18 on: May 13, 2009, 04:12:52 PM » Reply with quote

i got root rot.. blak sludge/slime.. everything will be dead by tomarrow im shure.. ima try h2o2 as a last resort..

I will say with 100% confidence that root sludge/slime is algae, not root rot. H2O2 will not fix algae, cleaning/trimming roots will. The only solution at this point is elbow grease.

Like I was saying in the last post, root rot is rare in controlled temperature conditions as the pythium reproductive life cycle requires two phases which occur at  different (extreme) temperatures. If you feel your water and it is cold, you have very little chance of breeding pythium.

If you don't believe me, try washing one root ball. If when the slime washes off, the somewhat healthy roots are instantly less discolored, it is algae. If you wash the slime off and the roots are black, you have both root rot and algae (doubtful as algae does not do well in conditions that pythium does well).

Another test is to smell the root ball. Normally, roots should smell like russet potatoes, and certain tomatoes I've found smell like sweet potatoes. If it smells like trash/rotten potatoes, it is pythium. If it smells like a bad fish tank, the ocean, or a swamp, it is algae. This is really a gag test as pythium smells so foul (think city dump on a hot day) that you will want to vomit whereas algae smells fishy and funky.
« Last Edit: May 13, 2009, 04:26:03 PM by ian » Logged
infosponge
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« Reply #19 on: May 13, 2009, 09:59:30 PM » Reply with quote

ian you allways seem to amaize me.. and thu roots dont stink like a dump.. i got a laugh out of that one.. and ill be washing everything when i get home... i can see new white root growth.. on top of thu slime.. atleas i got a good outlook now.. and sume hope... thanx AGAIN...
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Tom
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« Reply #20 on: May 13, 2009, 10:17:25 PM » Reply with quote

Good advise Ian!
A 15 gallon res is going to be hard to keep the water stable cause it isn't very big. A larger res would be way more stable and easier to control.
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ian
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« Reply #21 on: May 13, 2009, 10:30:03 PM » Reply with quote

ian you allways seem to amaize me.. and thu roots dont stink like a dump.. i got a laugh out of that one.. and ill be washing everything when i get home... i can see new white root growth.. on top of thu slime.. atleas i got a good outlook now.. and sume hope... thanx AGAIN...

Ever had a bag of moldy potatoes in a cupboard that made the whole kitchen smell bad? Maybe that is just me...

I put a link to a guide to some common root rots. Hopefully you never need this. I have two cherry trees which used to have root rot, but I buried a bag of neem next to each one and they perked up this year.

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/ornamentals/publications/pesticide/disease/root_rot.pdf

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ian
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« Reply #22 on: May 13, 2009, 10:53:09 PM » Reply with quote

Good advise Ian!
A 15 gallon res is going to be hard to keep the water stable cause it isn't very big. A larger res would be way more stable and easier to control.

Good point, I didn't even notice the 15 gallon reservoir part. I have used a 15 gal reservoir for drain-to-waste systems with no problem, but for recirculating DWC this would need to be changed every couple of days.

I would go up to 50 or 100 gallons.

My only problem with the big reservoirs has been pumping out the water. My shrubs and lawn can only take so much at a time before I am over-fertilizing. The grass in the spot where I used to dump 100 gallons turned dark green/purple and grew ten times as fast as the rest of the lawn, so I had to start pumping it through a soaker hose to spread out the solution. This is easier in the summer as I am not worried about it washing into the gutter.
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john sutherland
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« Reply #23 on: November 19, 2009, 03:59:28 AM » Reply with quote

Thanks a lot for the post. I really want to learn how to grow plants using hydroponics but I don’t have much knowledge about this method. I appreciate your effort in writing articles or posts about hydroponics which helps me a lot in understanding matters about this amazing method of planting.



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« Last Edit: November 19, 2009, 05:36:20 PM by ian » Logged
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